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Gen 3 Raptor

Gen 3 Raptor Oil and Filter Change (2021+ 3.5L EcoBoost)

A full walkthrough of draining, filtering and refilling the 3.5L HO EcoBoost in a Gen 3 Raptor — the access panels, the spin-on filter, and the reset you'll forget if you rush.

2021–present45–75 minEasyUpdated October 24, 2026

Video: Ford F-150/Raptor EcoBoost 3.5L Oil Change DIY Step by Step by Cameron Alford on YouTube.

RaptorCentral isn't affiliated with the creator; the steps below are our own write-up.

Who this is for

This guide is for the Gen 3 Raptor (2021 and newer), the 450-hp, 510 lb-ft 3.5L HO EcoBoost truck. It is the same basic engine family as the Gen 2 Raptor (2017–2020) and takes the same oil type and capacity, but the Gen 3 uses a different skid plate and underbody shielding, so the access-panel fasteners and filter location aren't identical. If you're working on a Gen 2 truck, use this write-up for the big-picture steps but expect the shielding to come apart differently — check the Gen 2 Raptor page for what else is different between the two trucks before you start pulling fasteners you don't need to.

Time
45–75 min
Difficulty
Easy
Applies to
2021–present

Tools

  • Filter wrench, in case the spin-on oil filter is on too tight to remove by hand
  • Power ratchet or breaker bar with the right socket for the drain plug
  • Metric sockets and a Torx bit set for the underbody access panel and skid plate fasteners (types vary)
  • Drain pan rated for at least 7 quarts
  • Long-neck funnel
  • Jack and a pair of rated jack stands, if you choose to lift the truck
  • Nitrile gloves and shop rags
  • Brake cleaner or degreaser for cleanup around the drain plug and filter

Parts

  • Motorcraft full-synthetic 5W-30 oil, 6 quarts for the Gen 3 Raptor's 3.5L EcoBoost
  • Motorcraft oil filter FL-500-S (or a filter meeting SAE/USCAR-36 Filter Type C if Motorcraft isn't available) — spin-on, comes with its own gasket
  • Drain plug seal/gasket, only if your existing one looks worn or damaged

Steps

  1. Stage your supplies and get the truck level

    Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and let the engine cool if you just drove it — hot oil drains faster but it will also burn you. Lay out the drain pan, filter wrench, new filter, and the six quarts of oil before you get underneath the truck, plus metric sockets and a Torx bit set for whatever access-panel fasteners you find. Having everything within reach matters more on a Raptor than a lower truck, since you'll spend most of this job on your back.

    Jump to 0:00 in the video →
  2. Remove the access panel, then drain the old oil

    The Raptor's ground clearance often lets you reach the drain plug's access panel without lifting the truck at all. If you'd rather lift it for more room, use rated jack stands at Ford's lift points — never trust a jack alone for anything you're going to be lying under. Remove the underbody access panel(s) covering the drain plug and the filter before you drain anything; fastener types vary truck to truck, which is why it's worth having both metric sockets and a Torx set on hand. With the panel off, position the drain pan, break the drain plug loose with a ratchet, and remove it by hand. Let it drain fully; this takes longer than you expect on a 6-quart EcoBoost, especially once it slows to a trickle. Inspect the drain plug and its sealing washer while you wait — replace either one if it looks worn or damaged.

    Jump to 0:30 in the video →
  3. Reseat the drain plug

    Thread the plug in by hand first to avoid cross-threading the pan, then snug it with a ratchet. Torque to the spec in your service manual with a torque wrench; 'snug plus a quarter turn' is how people strip the pan's threads, and that's an expensive mistake to fix.

    Jump to 2:02 in the video →
  4. Remove the spin-on filter and install the new one

    The Gen 3's 3.5L EcoBoost uses a spin-on oil filter, not a cartridge in a separate housing. Loosen it counterclockwise by hand, or with a filter wrench if it won't budge, and let it drain into the pan as it comes off — expect it to be full of oil. Wipe the filter's mounting surface clean and make sure the old filter's rubber gasket came off with it; a gasket left stuck to the mount is one of the most common causes of a leak after this job. Smear a thin film of fresh oil on the new filter's gasket, spin the new Motorcraft FL-500-S (or SAE/USCAR-36 Type C equivalent) on by hand until the gasket just contacts the mounting surface, then tighten it the amount printed on the filter or specified in your manual — typically a fraction of a turn past hand-tight, not a full wrench-tightening.

    Jump to 3:07 in the video →
  5. Reinstall the access panel(s) and underbody shielding

    With the drain plug and filter buttoned up, bring the access panel(s), skid plate, and any underbody shields back into position and reinstall every fastener you removed. Check each one for stripped threads as you go — it's much easier to catch a stripped hole now than to chase a dangling panel on the highway later. Don't skip any of the smaller push-pin fasteners; they're there to keep the shielding from rattling loose.

    Jump to 5:15 in the video →
  6. Lower the truck and refill with fresh oil

    Once the truck is back on the ground, open the hood, pull the oil fill cap, and use a funnel to add the full 6 quarts of Motorcraft 5W-30 full-synthetic. Pour slowly near the top of the fill — overshooting and having to siphon oil back out is more annoying than pouring carefully in the first place.

    Jump to 5:59 in the video →
  7. Check the level, start the engine, and look for leaks

    Let the oil settle for a couple of minutes, then check the dipstick and top off if it's reading low. Start the engine and let it idle for a minute — this is the point where a loose drain plug or an under-tightened filter will show itself. Get back under the truck with a flashlight and check both the drain plug and the new filter for drips before you call it done.

    Jump to 7:48 in the video →
  8. Reset the oil life monitor

    Ford's Intelligent Oil-Life Monitor tracks remaining oil life and needs to be reset after a change or it'll keep counting down from where it left off. The reset lives in the message center menu on the instrument cluster — scroll to the oil life item and hold the reset button until it confirms. Exact menu wording varies slightly by model year, so if you don't see it right away, check your owner's manual for the cluster-specific steps.

    Jump to 8:36 in the video →
  9. Final top-up and cleanup

    Recheck the dipstick one more time after the engine's had a minute to settle post-idle, and add the last few ounces if needed — it's normal for the level to read a hair low right after the fill until the new filter has fully filled and the oil settles. Wipe down anything you splashed, and take the old oil and filter to a recycling center or an auto parts store that accepts used oil — most do, for free.

    Jump to 9:16 in the video →

Specs

Gen 3 Raptor Oil and Filter Change (2021+ 3.5L EcoBoost) specs
Oil capacity
6 qt
Source: RaptorCentral spec table
Oil type
5W-30 full synthetic (Motorcraft)
Source: RaptorCentral spec table
Oil filter
Motorcraft FL-500-S (or SAE/USCAR-36 Filter Type C equivalent)
Source: Ford owner's manual
Engine
3.5L HO EcoBoost V6, 450 hp @ 5,850 rpm, 510 lb-ft @ 3,000 rpm
Source: RaptorCentral spec table

Safety notes

  • Never work under a truck supported only by a jack — use rated jack stands at Ford's lift points if you lift it.
  • Let the engine cool before draining if you just drove it; fresh-drained oil can be hot enough to burn skin on contact.
  • Torque the drain plug to the spec in your service manual with a torque wrench, and tighten the new filter to the amount printed on it or in your manual — don't guess by feel on either.
  • Take used oil and the old filter to a recycling center or parts store that accepts them; never pour used oil down a drain.
  • Wear nitrile gloves — used engine oil carries combustion byproducts you don't want sitting on bare skin for a whole afternoon.

Owner questions

How much oil does a Gen 3 Raptor take?
Six quarts of 5W-30 full-synthetic oil. That's the RaptorCentral spec-table figure for the 3.5L EcoBoost in the Gen 3 truck.
What oil filter fits the Gen 3 Raptor?
Ford's current owner's manual lists Motorcraft FL-500-S for the 3.5L EcoBoost. If a Motorcraft filter isn't available, Ford's fallback guidance is any filter meeting SAE/USCAR-36 Filter Type C.
How often should I change the oil?
Follow the truck's Intelligent Oil-Life Monitor rather than a fixed mileage number — that's the system Ford designed for this. If you tow a lot, run dusty trails, or do a lot of stop-and-go, it's worth shortening the interval from what the monitor alone suggests, since that's generally considered severe service.
Do I need a specific torque spec for the drain plug?
Yes, and it's not something to estimate by feel. Torque to the figure in your service manual with a torque wrench — overtightening is the most common way people strip the pan's threads.
Do I need to replace the drain plug's seal or the filter's gasket every time?
Replace the drain plug's sealing washer if it looks worn or damaged. You don't need to think about the filter's gasket separately — it comes fresh on every new filter, so it's replaced automatically each time you install one.
Where do I take the old oil and filter?
Most auto parts stores and municipal recycling centers accept used motor oil and filters at no cost — check before you drive across town, but it's rarely hard to find a drop-off point.
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