Gen 2 Raptor Coolant Drain and Refill (2017–2020)

Who this is for

This is for the Gen 2 Raptor's cooling system, 2017 through 2020 — and the single most important thing to know before you start is that Ford changed coolant type partway through this generation. The 2017 Raptor calls for Motorcraft ORANGE coolant; the 2019 calls for Motorcraft YELLOW. They are not interchangeable, and mixing them is the mistake this guide is written to help you avoid. If you drive a 2018 or 2020, check your own supplement or the reservoir cap/label before buying anything — we don't have a verified figure for those two years. The capacity moved too, and not by a trivial amount: the 2017 supplement lists 17.28 quarts for the system, the 2019 lists 15.2. That's a difference of roughly two quarts, which is more than enough to leave you short mid-job if you bought for the wrong year, and it's the reason this page labels every figure by model year rather than quoting one number for the generation. The other thing to be clear-eyed about before you start: this is the longest and least forgiving job in the fluids section of this library. A differential refill that goes slightly wrong leaks on your driveway. A cooling system with air trapped in it can overheat an engine with two turbochargers hanging off it, and the symptoms don't always announce themselves on the test drive. If you're not set up to do the fill and bleed properly and recheck it cold afterward, this is a reasonable one to hand to a shop.

Steps

1. 1

   Confirm your coolant type before you buy anything

   This matters more than any other step in this guide. The 2017 Raptor supplement specifies Motorcraft ORANGE Prediluted Coolant (VC-3DIL-B, spec WSS-M97B44-D2) at 17.28 qt (16.35 L); the 2019 supplement specifies Motorcraft YELLOW Prediluted Coolant (VC-13DL-G, spec WSS-M97B57-A2) at 15.2 qt (14.35 L) — a different type and a different capacity. If you're on a 2018 or 2020, check your own supplement or the label on the coolant reservoir before assuming either figure applies.

2. 2

   Let the engine cool completely, then gather your supplies

   Never open a hot cooling system — the system is pressurized and hot coolant can cause serious burns. Wait until the engine's fully cool to the touch before touching the radiator cap or any hoses, and have your drain pan, funnel and the correct coolant staged before you start.

   Jump to 0:00 in the video →
3. 3

   Drain the radiator

   With the pan in position, open the system's drain point and let the old coolant run out fully. Catch all of it in the pan rather than letting it run onto the ground or driveway.

   Jump to 0:45 in the video →
4. 4

   Refill the system with the correct Motorcraft coolant

   Refill with whichever coolant matches your confirmed model year — never top off a system that's ever run orange with yellow, or the reverse, even partway. Fill slowly through the funnel to help avoid trapping air pockets.

   Jump to 1:33 in the video →
5. 5

   Bleed and repeat the fill as needed

   The video this page is built around repeats the drain-and-refill cycle as part of finishing the job — a common approach for fully purging old coolant and trapped air from the system. Ford's own bleeding procedure is detailed in its service information, and we're not going to invent a specific sequence here; follow your service procedure, run the engine with the heater on for a bit, and recheck the level once the system is fully cool again.

   Jump to 4:08 in the video →
6. 6

   Recheck the level once it's cool

   Coolant levels settle as trapped air works its way out, so don't consider the job finished right after the last refill. Let the truck sit, cool completely, and top off again if the level's dropped. Keep whatever's left of the correct coolant for your year on the shelf rather than discarding it — you'll likely want a little more over the next few cold cycles, and the whole point of this guide is not having to guess which jug to grab.

7. 7

   Watch the temperature gauge on the first real drive

   The first proper drive after a coolant service is the test, not the idle in the driveway. Keep an eye on the temperature gauge and on the heater's output — heat that comes and goes, or a gauge that climbs higher than this truck normally runs, points at air still trapped in the system rather than at the coolant you just put in. If either shows up, stop and go back to the fill and bleed rather than driving through it and hoping it clears.

8. 8

   Look for where it's leaking before you put the tools away

   Once it's cooled back down, get underneath with a flashlight and check the drain point and any hose you disturbed for seepage, and look at the ground under where the truck has been parked. Coolant leaves a distinctive residue as it dries, so a small weep that hasn't dripped yet is still usually visible around the fitting that's causing it.

9. 9

   Dispose of the old coolant properly

   Pour the drained coolant into a sealed container and take it to a recycling center — most auto parts stores accept it too. Coolant is toxic to pets and wildlife, so don't leave any standing in an open pan or let it run off where an animal could get to it.

Specs

Safety notes

• Never open a hot cooling system — let the engine cool completely first; it's pressurized and can cause serious burns.
• Never mix orange and yellow coolant types, even for a top-off — confirm the correct type for your model year before adding anything.
• Coolant is toxic to pets and wildlife; don't leave drained coolant standing in an open container.
• Dispose of old coolant at a recycling center or auto parts store that accepts it; never pour it down a drain or onto the ground.